By Tracy Nieporent
The wind was icy and powerful, chilling me to the bone and practically lifting me off my feet. I pulled with all my might to open the door to an old, abandoned coffee factory, and then pushed mightily to close the door against the relentless gale. It was the winter of 1989, and this was my introduction to 375 Greenwich Street. My first thought was that no one in his or her right mind would make the trek down to such a forlorn place. Now, two decades later, I can happily say that I was totally wrong.
The doors I forced open and shut led to the construction site for the Tribeca Grill, a restaurant that has helped define a neighborhood and has become abeloved New York City destination. It started with a shared vision of Robert De Niro and Drew Nieporent
to create a warm and welcoming restaurant with good food and drink that would anchor the first two floors of the Tribeca Film Center. Add Martin Shapiro, the managing partner, who two decades later, and with total dedication, still oversees a restaurant that has greeted millions of diners. Mix in two executive chefs--Don Pintabona and now Stephen Lewandowski--who serve up food that brings a smile, David Gordon, who has helped create a world-class wine list and an incredible staff--many of whom have worked at the restaurant since the beginning. The result is a successful restaurant with substance and integrity that has stood the test of time. One journalist endearingly called Tribeca Grill "a neighborhood restaurant for the whole world." As for those cold, harsh winds? They still sometimes whip down Greenwich Street in winter. But open the doors to Tribeca Grill, and there's always a warm welcome inside.
Named the 2007 World Champion Cheese Affineur "Refiner" and honored as a Master Craftsman of France, Rodolphe Le Meunier now brings his passion and cheeses to Bouley restaurants.
Rodolphe Le Meunier at Bouley Bakery
In order to send his cheeses to David Bouley, Le Meunier had to first master the transportation cycle to ensure the cheeses spend the least time in transit possible.
He also needed to make certain that once the cheeses arrived at Bouley Market, they would be stored in optimum conditions to breathe and evolve naturally. Bouley built a specially designed cheese cellar for this purpose. The cellar itself has a viewing window that allow patrons to observe the cheeses, and the room is climate controlled--set to the exact temperature, humidity, and ventilation levels needed to create the perfect environment for the cheeses. To complete the cycle, Le Meunier has developed a training program to teach Bouley's staff how to care for, cut, and present the cheeses.
Rodolphe Le Meunier at Bouley Restaurant
Le Meunier has also provided a coup de coeur selection of five cheeses to be presented on a tasting plate at Bouley Restaurant. The seasonal assortment will change every few months, and Le Meunier will also conduct exclusive tastings, such as a trilogy of aged Comté d'Alpages including a 2008 aged 18 months, a 2007 aged 30 months, and a third from 2006 aged 40 months. They will be paired with a vin jaune, a regional white wine from France's Jura region.
Rodolphe Le Meunier at Bouley Test Kitchen There will also be cheese events at the Test Kitchen, where guests can taste all of Le Meunier's cheese selections and learn how to incorporate them into recipes.
Le Meunier has hand-selected these 15 cheeses that will be available at Bouley Market:
Comté d'Alpages AOC 18 Months
Cow--Jura
One hundred percent
Montéliarde cow's milk and free of additives, the Comté is aged for a minimum of 120 days. It has a nutty, slightly salty, yet sweet taste.
Morbier AOC
Cow--Jura
This smooth and sliceable cow's-milk cheese is still made according to tradition, with a fine dusting of ash between two layers.
Fourme d'Ambert AOC
Cow--Auvergne
A semihard blue cheese that is aged for a month during which time it is injected with sweet Vouvray moelleux wine, which also makes an excellent pairing.
Timanoix
Cow--Morbihan
A washed-rind cheese produced at a monastery in southern Brittany, it's rinsed in a walnut brandy and has a nutty note.
Tomme de Savoie
Cow--Savoie
Made from raw milk exclusively from cows in Savoie and Haute-Savoie, this traditional tomme is rich with distinctive herbal aromas that vary by producer.
Fouchtra de Vache
Cow--Auvergne
Similar to the Saint-Nectaire, this raw-milk cheese is aged for six months and has a brushed, clean crust. Volcanic terroir imparts distinctive flavor.
Puits d'Astier
Sheep--Auvergne
Aged on straw, this sheep's milk cheese has a delicate paste and a natural rind. Distinctive for the hole in its center, it's named is derived from the French word for well.
Galette d'Astier
Goat--Auvergne
Smooth and melty on the palate, the 10-week aging process allows for salty and pleasantly acidic notes that leave a delicate aftertaste of goat's milk.
Mimolette Vieille
Cow--Lille
Also referred to as the Boule de Lille, it resembles a cantaloupe at first glance. Naturally colored with annatto, the aged version, vieille, is chewy with a nuttyflavored crust.
Fumaison AOC
Sheep--Cantal
A raw sheep's-milk cheese that resembles a sausage, and is smoke-cured in much the same way.
Ossau-Iraty AOC
Sheep--Pyrénées
A firm, classic Basque cheese that has been made in the same tradition for centuries. It has an earthy quality similar to Sardinian pecorino, and is revered as one of the region's finest.
Petit Munster
Cow--Alsace
A 1,000-year-old recipe, this miniature round of washedrind cheese is luscious on the palate with sweeter notes of hay.
Tomme aux Piments d'Espelettes
Sheep--Basque Country
A firm sheep's-milk cheese that is coated in a light dusting of the Basque paprika, piment d'espelette, which imparts a toasty spiciness that enhances the cheeses own nutty, sweet flavor.
Tomme du Vieux Saulnois
Cow--Alsace
A semisoft, washed-rind cow's-milk cheese, it is rinsed with wine as it matures, which helps it to develop fruity notes with hints of mushrooms, grass, and butter.
Ossau-Iraty AOC
Sheep--Basque Country
A light, balanced Pyrénées sheep's cheese with fruit and nutty notes, it's considerably delicate for a mountainous-region cheese and has a thin, tart crust
As Italy races to compete with the fast-paced modern economy, there is less and less time for long lunches and drawn-out coffee breaks. This is most evident in cities like Milan and Rome, where business-suited men can be seen slamming espressos, dashing their change onto the counter, and smoking a hurried cigarette en route to the office.
Italy's most lasting tradition of culinary conviviality is the aperitif, or aperitivo. The custom of consuming a bitter or mildly alcoholic drink before lunch--or, most frequently, before
dinner--has been around for as long as anyone can remember. Old men sip white wine around 11 in the bar downstairs before heading up to lunch, young professionals cluster with colleagues and friends after work to catch up and decompress over an Aperol spritz, and city socialites organize opulent aperitivo events at lounges and nightclubs that start with a Prosecco at around 7 and finish with mojitos after midnight.
In recent years, the aperitivo has grown to include everything from small tapas-like plates to elaborate buffets of food, all included in the price of a drink. The trend began in modeconscious Milan, perhaps as a way to feed the flurry of business and fashion executives.
For all its evolution, the aperitivo is still as Italian as ever. Next time you're in Rome, check out these bars sometime between seven and nine in the evening.
Pigneto is Rome's latest exercise in gentrification. Although the area is cleaner and safer, it still has a neighborhood feel, with residents of all ethnicities clustering in the area's pedestrian stretch. Primo al Pigneto has a decidedly urban feel, with high ceilings, sparse décor, exclusive cheeses, and a wine list three times the size of the menu. For the aperitivo, they serve crisp, toasted bread with whipped butter, olive tapenade, and marinated anchovies.
Continue reading Aperitivo!.
Daniel Dirth, Captain and Bartender
Using an egg to crack the code of a restaurant is not uncommon and has historically stood as a quality marker in our industry. The pleats in a chef's toque are believed to represent the number of ways a professional should be able to prepare an egg.
In the 1950s, Chef Fernand Point of La Pyramide in Vienne, France, would put fellow three-star Michelin chefs on the spot and have them prove their culinary mastery by frying an egg. Even the famed gastronome James Beard recalls, "There are few things as magnificent as scrambled eggs, pure and simple, perfectly cooked and perfectly seasoned." The care that goes into cooking our eggs at Eleven Madison Park would make these chefs proud, but just as special as their preparation is their source.
Chef Daniel Humm features Knoll Krest Farm eggs, continuing the more than 20-year relationship that Danny Meyer started at his first restaurant, Union Square Cafe. Located in the heart of the Hudson Valley, in Clinton Corners, New York, the farm has been a regular at the Union Square Greenmarket for nearly 25 years. In the farm's infancy, the Messerich family patriarch declared, "I will never put a bird in a cage." Thus was born the farm's 60-year commitment to its flock and customers.
Seeing the farm today is a window into the past, as the chicken coops are some of the oldest remaining upstate. They boast beautiful stone foundations, where chickens roam free--reminiscent of old farms in Tuscany or Provence. The family raises Rhode Island Reds, which produce fewer eggs than commercial breeds. What they lack in quantity is made up for in quality. Their firm egg whites and sturdy, bright yolks are the result of a vegetarian diet free of hormones and antibiotics. The eggs arrive at our doorstep within three days of being laid, continuing the family's original practice of door-todoor delivery.
The painstaking care and practices of Bob and Alice Messerich produce eggs that are the foundation for Chef Humm's menu. Diners might not realize that the humble egg can be found throughout the entirety of their meal. Featured as an appetizer, used in many sauces, sabayons, and even cocktails, diners experience Knoll Krest Farm eggs from the first gougère to the last macaron.
Bob and Alice, now in their 80s, have joined forces with Elizabeth Ryan of Breezy Hill Orchard. This union ensures the family's farming legacy will be preserved well into the future, maintaining their roots and presence at the Greenmarket. After knowingly and unknowingly sampling Knoll Krest eggs at Eleven Madison Park, we hope that you grow to admire, respect, and appreciate Knoll Krest and their product as we do. And the best part is that you can bring a Knoll Krest delectable dozen into your own home, sharing with your friends and family the magic of a perfect egg.
Jeff Taylor, Sommelier
The poulet de Bresse is the French gastronomic mascot, its colors mimicking the country's flag. Aside from the bird's white feathers and red cockscomb, the poulet de Bresse is defined by its distinctive, striking steel-blue feet. If you visit any three-star Michelin restaurant in France, there will invariably be a chicken dish featuring the coveted poulet de Bresse. The breed is so highly sought after that it fetches around 15 euros a kilo ( just over $10 a pound) in markets, and it is illegal to export any part of the bird--dressed, live, or even an egg--outside of France.
The city of Bourg-en-Bresse is in eastern France and is just 43 miles northeast of the country's gastronomical capital, Lyon. Its residents have raised their prince among poultry since early Roman times. However, the first recorded mention of the bird was triumphantly scribed in 1591, when citizens of Bourg-en-Bresse awarded the Marquis of Treffort with two dozen birds for his bravery, which included driving off an army of marauding Savoyard soldiers. As if that proved too small a gesture to solidify its status in the gastronomic elite, the poulet de Bresse's reputation was assured by 1825, when the 19th-century epicure and gastronome, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, described the bird as "the queen of chickens and the chicken of kings."
In 1936, the chicken breeders of Bresse waged a bitter court battle in order to protect their product from fraudulent farmers elsewhere in France. Court experts determined that the region's distinctive clay-rich soil, the temperate climate, the breed's proven purity, and specific poultry-rearing methods indeed combined to produce a unique, inimitable bird. The French thought so highly of their first-class fowl, they treated it like their prized wines from exclusive terroirs, granting it AOC status in 1957.
American chefs tasted this delectable bird abroad and sought a way to offer a similar specimen to the American dining public. Thanks to the efforts of Peter Thiessen, a Canadian poultry breeder, and Bob Shipley, manager of a California farm cooperative, they were able to do just that. In 2004, after years of experimentation, Thiessen produced a bird that wowed Vancouver's French chefs and eventually reached Central Valley Farms, one of Shipley's co-ops, where it's now bred exclusively and distributed by D'Artagnan. Thus, the California Poulet Bleu--or California Blue Foot, as it's commonly called--made its way onto menus from coast to coast. The American gold standard had finally arrived.
These chickens are treated like royalty, raised with plenty of room to roam, natural lighting, and an all-vegetable, antibiotic-free, whole-grain diet. They are fed milk with their water, allowed to age many weeks longer than other poultry, and air-chilled after slaughter. All of these factors result in the classic supple texture and rich gamey flavor of this prized poultry. As an ode to their French counterparts, American chefs commonly present the cooked bird tableside, with the head and feet intact--thus showcasing the chicken's dramatic colors in the dining room.
As chefs on both sides of the Atlantic adoringly prepare their prized poultry, it is obvious these birds stand at the top of the pecking order. And because they need little embellishment in their preparation--the bird has already done most of the work--diners constantly give them what might one day be construed as the highest praise: "They really taste like . . . chicken."
Scott Conant shares some of his star ingredients, his favorite dishes using them, and recipes for creating an outstanding meal at home.
Chickpeas
Chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans or ceci in Italian, are the most consumed legumes throughout the entirety of the world. Originally from the Middle East, they have a delicious buttery texture and nutlike taste, reminiscent of a raw chestnut or walnut.
Black Mission Figs
Originating from Spain and brought to North America by Spanish missionaries, the black mission fig is a medium to large pear-shape, purplish black fruit with crimson-colored flesh. Its flavor shows a very balanced sweetness with a hint of tang and an almost savory note at the finish. Look for fruit with small cracks on the sides or bottom. You can also tell a fig's ripeness by touch: ready-to-eat figs are tender and have a slight give.
Spice Rub
Szechuan pepper, juniper berry, clove, cinnamon stick, and star anise make up the savory flavor of the Scarpetta spice rub for the venison loin. The sweet tones of the star anise, clove, and cinnamon are balanced by the bite of Szechuan pepper, while the juniper berry marries them all together. It's a sweet, warm, cool, and spicy blend.
Continue reading In the Pan.
Chef Burke is excited about some of the signature dishes that he's bringing back to the menu at the newly renovated David Burke Townhouse.
Burke's original creations have always been groundbreaking in terms of technique and flavor combinations, and they have stood the test of time. Burke believes every restaurant should be known for certain dishes. The sign of a dish's success is when customers continually ask for them when they go off the menu. Some of Burke's original dishes have been slightly updated, but the architecture of them remains completely intact--only the garnish, some of the herbs, or the color of the sauce may have changed. And Burke will be adding some new dishes that he hopes will become instant classics--such as a new Peanut Brittle Roast Duck--sure to quickly become a guest favorite.
Crisp Angry Lobster
 
David Burke finds humor in every dish, and that's the case of his infamous Crisp Angry Lobster. With a name like that, the diner is already smiling. It is a quintessential Burke classic--a dish that is memorable not only because of its quirky name, but also
because the diner remembers it as being so tasty. "Angry Lobster is a signature dish that I personally never tire of."
NEW YORK STRIP STEAK & BONE MARROW OXTAIL DUMPLINGS
The show goes on with this new creation from Burke that is like sculptural theater on a plate.
Rack of Lamb & Roasted Octopus
 Some might consider this surf and turf an unusual combination on the same plate. But
for David Burke, it all makes sense, and guests have deemed it another hit on the menu. "Both ingredients hail from the Mediterranean, and their individual flavors work well together. The octopus is meaty enough to stand up to the lamb, which is served on a bed of saffron couscous that we finish with a mustard and Moroccan glaze."
Roasted & Crispy Seawater-Soaked Chicken
"There is something so comforting about roasted chicken. We actually brine the chicken in seawater that gives it an extra layer of flavor. The chanterelle purée is a great seasonal accompaniment."
Handmade Cavatelli & Braised Short Ribs
 "Another customer favorite, and perfect for the fall and winter months, this hearty dish has fresh wild mushrooms that represent the season, and a truffle mousse that just adds so much wonderful flavor."
The Lobster Steak
 Ever the creative wordsmith with the names of his dishes, the Lobster Steak is no exception. This David Burke classic has been brought back with only a slight garnish change. "We take a compact, two-pound lobster; shape it--not cut it-- into a filet; and bound it with butter and a little puréed shrimp. It's unique and packs an incredible wallop of flavor."
Sea Scallop Benedict
 This is another dish that Burke has recently put back on the menu at many diners' requests. "The great part about this dish is that it's not too 'bulky,' but it still has a
gourmet edge to it. It's the lightness of the dish that makes it so clever."
--a publication that will try to capture and articulate some of the various flavors of our unique business.
New York City's first fully operational winery is suffused with both the aromatic notes from fermenting grapes and the vibrancy of live music in our intimate concert space. We are a place where one can sit and enjoy great wine from a handblown Riedel glass, immersed in the ambience of a beautiful 300-capacity room, enjoying some of the greatest musicians in the world. Already in less than a year, we have hosted artists as diverse as Philip Glass, Patti Smith, Rufus Wainwright, David Byrne, Suzanne Vega, and Ingrid Michaelson. We are the first serious music venue built inside a real winery smack-dab in the middle of Manhattan.
We are also bringing the rock stars of the wine world together in a way not previously seen
in New York. We have had public dinners and classes with Christian Moueix, esteemed
winemaker of Dominus and Chateau Petrus; classes taught by Kevin Zraly of Windows on
the World; and dinners with Daniel Jonas of Daniel, Jean Luc Le Dû, and many others. Our biweekly cheese classes with our partner, Murray's Cheese, are almost always sold out, every time. Our facility has hosted private wine tastings, large trade-association events with producers from Argentina to Napa, and individual distributor meetings and luminaries in food and wine publishing. We are a wonderful facility for private corporate parties, weddings, bar or bat mitzvahs, and special events. From a Tribeca Film Festival awards night with Robert
De Niro to a gala fundraiser for Mayor Bloomberg, we have hosted some very cool events.
But beyond the music and events, we also make world-class wine, handcrafted to perfectly
express both the urban terroir of New York City and the terroir of California, Oregon, New York State, and wherever we find the best grapes. There is so much activity going on at City Winery, you really do need Notes to take it all in. And visit us online at www.citywinery.com, always the best place to get the most up-to-date information.
Thank you for reading this far, enjoy the guide, and we'll see you soon.
Michael Dorf
Founder & CEO
Bring up Laurent Tourondel, and Louis Rozzo effuses. The fourth-generation F. Rozzo & Sons fish purveyor took some time to chat about the history of the business, himself, and his client and dear friend, Laurent.
How would you define your relationship with Laurent?
I have a tremendous amount of respect for him, and every time I'm with him we have fun. I realize there are a lot of fish guys out there, so besides the friendship, as a business partner I know that he relies on me to provide the best product.
What is the backstory on F. Rozzo & Sons?
We started in 1900 with my great-grandparents, who came over from Italy. While my great-grandfather started off as a gravedigger, my grandmother took a job filleting fish and was earning five times as much as he was, so they decided to start their own business.
What was it like back then?
My father used to tell me that the Fulton Fish Market was run by the Irish, and that at first they wouldn't let my great-grandfather buy any fish until his wife's boss, who was Irish, vouched for him. He peddled his first box of fish back in his neighborhood and made more money on that box than he did in two weeks working as a gravedigger. Back then, he would go down to the market in a horse and buggy. Now take this next story as you will, but apparently my greatgrandfather would sometimes fall asleep in the back of the buggy, but since the horse went to the market so often, he knew exactly where to go!
Aside from the mode of transportation, how has the fish business changed?
While my father used to buy all his fish from Fulton Street, I buy mine direct from commercial fisherman. The technology of freight, the way fish can be packed and shipped, now gives me a huge advantage. I buy fish from Brazil, Ecuador, Holland, and France. There's a much greater variety available today.
What does Laurent favor?
While he wants fish that is exotic and interesting, his overall concern is quality, so he prefers fish that I can get locally. I can get sea bass, eight or nine hours out of the water, directly to his restaurant.
What can diners expect from the sea on the fall menu?
Ocean striped bass, black sea bass, fluke--there's a lot of beautiful local fluke around. Also, local monkfish.
Anything new and exciting?
Yes, I'm actually going to be the first guy to bring in Alaskan king crabmeat uncooked, sashimi quality. I have been very impressed with the quality of this product, and it's a perfect fit with Laurent's philosophy.
What is your favorite dish on a BLT menu? I have to admit that BLT Fish
is one of my favorite restaurants in New York City, and Amy, Laurent's protégé there, does a whole red snapper that is out of this world. Also, the black cod at BLT Market is to die for.
Do you have preferences when it comes to pairing fish and wine?
I'm unconventional in that I really enjoy red wine, and all of Laurent's restaurants offer a great selection. My favorite is an Opus.
What's your favorite fish?
That's a tough question, because I love fish. I sell to 300 restaurants, and I try to eat my fish in every one of them. It's just my passion--I enjoy them all thoroughly.
What's your favorite at-home preparation?
I'm not really one to kill it with a lot of sauce. I love to take a fluke that I know was swimming just this morning or late last night, fillet it, and sauté it with a little butter and some salt. I prefer to really taste the fish on its own.
Daniel Boulud and Laurent Tourondel, blindfolded.
No agenda, no script, only one rule--no peeking. Just two very accomplished chefs (and longtime amis) getting together for a friendly gustatory challenge--which was more about having fun than any kind of test.
Both chefs are passionate about their profession, and focused on turning out the best food, no matter what venue it may be. They each have made their mark on the dining scene in New York and around the world. The taste test was originally planned just for Laurent to challenge Daniel at BLT Steak. But the tasting was so much fun for the chefs that Daniel decided to invite Laurent Tourondel to his place, Restaurant Daniel, to do a taste test of his own.
BLT Steak Chef de Cuisine Christopher Lim, who worked for Daniel both at Restaurant Daniel and Café Boulud, couldn't resist the chance to get in on the action. He brought out the components of a butternut-squash soup to challenge his old boss, but Daniel was up to the task and named off each ingredient in swift succession.
DB: Ah, that was a great test. Laurent had to scratch his brain as hard as I did. The thing about this is that you have no idea what the challenging chef is doing, what he is thinking, or where he is going with the concept of a dish. Breaking it down like this blindfolded, your mind wants you to try to make flavor associations. And so you have to bring your taste buds into the process of asking "What could this be?" Most people eat with their eyes first, so what you see definitely influences taste.
Continue reading Put to the Test.
 Victor Albisu was appointed chef de cuisine at BLT Steak DC nearly two years ago. With a Cuban father and a Peruvian mother who were both from "very intense cooking cultures," and summers spent helping out at his family's restaurants in Miami, Albisu seemed predestined for a culinary career. Yet, at one point in his life, he was headed in a completely different direction. Then his career path took an unexpected turn, and he made his way back into the kitchen. Creative and always evolving his skills, he is definitely at his happiest there.
What are some of your favorite childhood food memories?
I started cooking at a very young age. My grandfather was a baker in Cuba. You could find me at a very young age standing on milk crates or telephone books to watch him make empanadas. I was always very involved. I used to go to Miami every summer to help out in the family business. I'd press Cuban sandwiches, brew coffee, or make croquetas. I guess it could have been seen as child labor anywhere else, but I enjoyed it too much to consider it work!
So you always knew you wanted to continue the tradition?
Yes, but at first I didn't take it seriously; I never opened my eyes to it as a career. I studied international relations, I was very much into political science, and I worked in international development after I graduated from college.
Continue reading The Heart of a Chef - BLT DC - Victor Albisu.
Samantha Moretti
 One of the most important reasons to work in a restaurant is because you have a genuine interest in the industry, as I do. I currently work as a server, a bartender, and a sommelier because I love this industry and food and wine. Working at Scarpetta is particularly easy--since the food is wonderful and the wine is great, it's very easy to stand behind the product. Every single time I approach a table and speak on behalf of the menu or while presenting a dish, it comes from my heart, because I know that the diner is going to love their meal. I think it is important that the guests have an experience from start to finish, that we take them on a ride. Explaining the menu, reviewing the dishes when they reach the table, detailing the wine as they are drinking it, checking back 20 minutes later when it has opened up to make sure they are enjoying it--all the steps that help make the experience a great one from the first sip to the last bite.
What have you learned along the way? I have always loved working in restaurants. At Abboccato, I gained a passion for the art of food and learned everything I know about service and all that encompasses hospitality. Hospitality really is the most important element in a restaurant, so it's crucial to grasp the concept and execute it well. At Esca, I really bridged the gap between learning about service and food and being educated about food. I came to Scarpetta because I wanted to work with Italian food and be able to show my personality in the process. Being able to put your personality into everything you do is a trait that Scott Conant treasures in his staff. In my case, the biggest thing that I want to convey to the diner is passion! As your server, I am not only delivering your plate, but I am giving you my soul, I am giving you everything that is important to me. From the moment I wake up in the morning until the time that I come into the restaurant at night, I am constantly thinking about food, about how the night is going to go, about how I can present a new dish, or talk about a new cheese plate or another cool wine that I want guests to taste that night. I am not trying to be actor or a dancer--I just want to be the best server I can be.
What makes it all click at Scarpetta? It starts with the food and the wine, but then you add staff with smiles and passion for what they do, and suddenly the guests feel warm, they feel welcome, they feel satisfied with what is in front of them. When you take that combination to the next level, you have a full dining room that starts to have its own heartbeat and personality. You walk in and you can feel all of the cylinders of the restaurant working in sync: you hear the music, the sounds of silverware, of people clinking their glasses and uttering "salute"; you hear waiters explaining the dishes. You also take it all in visually: at the table next to you, the cloche comes off, the steam rises, and you see these amazing pastas, then you spy a great pork chop over in the corner. You get excited, the guests get excited, they ask where certain items are on the menu and want to be told the specifics about the dish.
 What can you recommend, what should we order, how should we do it, how should we course it out? It becomes rhythmic, and by the time they leave, they are planning their return. And then they tell their friends. There is a phrase in the restaurant industry: if guests love the food, they'll tell one of their friends; if they hate it, they'll tell 10 of their friends. We've had a lot of happy customers.
What is your favorite dish? The spaghetti gets all the press, but there are many other things that merit attention. My favorite dish on the menu is the Black Maccheroni. It is spectacular! My aunt, who was really into food, used to say when she liked something, "If God likes it, he eats it on Sunday." I think the Black Maccheroni is just that. The mussels, clams, rock shrimp, a little bit of sea urchin, which liquefies itself when it hits heat and really becomes part of the dish, and just a touch of minted bread crumbs, which adds earthiness to the finish--that is perfection.
Last Bite: My dad said that when you love your job you never have to work a day in your life. I get to host a party every night, so I would have to say it's a pretty good job!
"It's been a really awesome year! We opened last May and hit the ground running. The intention of the restaurant was to take a humble and modest approach, focusing on the food. From this perspective, a year ago, we were just a small trattoria located in the Meatpacking District. We didn't know what to expect, so everything that has happened in this short time is incredible."
Scott Conant believes that he is currently making the best food of his career--and by all indications, he is spot-on. There's the menu: signature Scott Conant dishes that he has cultivated over the years, balanced with new recipes developed at Scarpetta, to create a variety of dishes that appeal not only to bigtime food enthusiasts but also to customers who don't necessarily have the opportunity to dine out every night. The reviewers likewise agree: Scarpetta received three stars from both The New York Times and New York magazine and was named a "Best New Restaurant in America" by Esquire. The restaurant is recommended in the 2009 Michelin Guide and earned Wine Enthusiast magazine's 2008 Award of Distinction. And finally, to cap off its one-year anniversary, Scarpetta was nominated "Best New Restaurant" by the James Beard Foundation.
Asked what he would change about this past year, Conant responds: "I wouldn't want to change anything. We've tweaked, but there is a difference between tweaking and changing. What I had initially seen in my mind's eye was both a building and a creative process, and that has really come to fruition. The experience of dining at Scarpetta is resonating with diners, which is the whole point. We have people walking out happier than when they walked in, and there is nothing better than that."
"An idea is only as good as the people you put in place to execute it," he continues. "Scarpetta is not just about me--it goes back to the great team that I have. I count myself extremely lucky to have this staff, many who have been with me for many years, who are executing on an incredibly high level, and, more important, who are providing for their own families. Nobody is taking this situation for granted."
SCARPETTA MIAMI beach
 Scott Conant flew south this past winter to create a new outpost of Scarpetta at Fontainebleau Miami. The newly renovated Fontainebleau is a spectacular blend of Miami's glamorous golden era and stylish modern luxury, combining striking design, contemporary art, music, and fashion for a new kind of vibrant South Beach experience. "Miami and the Fontainebleau fit so well with what we started here in New York," says Conant. "And having two restaurants about two and a half hours by plane away from each other is a great thing for Scarpetta."
As in New York, the same energy of the restaurant reigns in Miami, but with a décor designed to suit the warm climate. The light and airy main dining room displays a refined nautical palette, complete with portholes and large wood columns bound with leather and rope. Floor-to-ceiling windows and a veranda wrap around the room with views of the hotel pool and the ocean.
Scarpetta Miami's general manager Chris Cuomo asserts, "When you combine one of the top chefs in the country, a restaurant with an incredible energy and atmosphere, and an unparalleled hotel in a fantastic location, you can only be destined for success. Scarpetta has quickly made a huge statement in Miami, taking the food, service, and beverage program to another level--one that Miami has not seen in a long time."
 "The biggest mistake people make when it comes to fish is overcooking it," says Chef Michael White, who notes that in general we tend to overcook food in the United States. "Having a perfectly cooked piece of sea bass or a trout is very special."
 The same goes for shellfish: White sings the praises of having steamed clams just opened, taken out of the pot one by one. "Less is more," he explains. "Having less ingredients and letting them stand on their own is very important."
But starting with great fish is paramount to a great-tasting end product. "Know where you're buying from--which is a little easier in New York than in a lot of other cities given the access we have to great places like Fairway and Citarella, not to mention the fish markets." Besides good quality, White recommends buying in season: "Scallops, for example, thrive in cold waters, so don't buy them in the summer." If you're looking for a really exceptional piece of fish, he suggests getting a shipment from specialty companies, like Taylor Seafood, to ensure quality and freshness.
Just Grill It
Grilling season is coming up, and Chef White is a big advocate of grilled fish. While he readily admits its more work to eat, grilling fish on the bone definitely yields better results. "The fish stays moister and juicier," he says, "and is quite delicious."
Easy Serving Suggestions
Mozzarella apetizer: Fish and dairy together are extraordinary. Simply add bottarga shavings to a little mozzarella, and eat!
Shrimp salad: A perfect picnic pleaser. Poach shrimp in salted water, toss with olive oil and a little lemon juice, add beans and tomatoes, and serve.
Tuna panini: Grill a piece of tuna, slice it, and marinate with lemon and oil and herbs. Serve between ciabatta bread.
Tonno sott'olio: Poach a piece of tuna in oil and serve with roasted peppers and tomatoes.
Fava-bean mash: Poach the fava beans, and mash them up with minced basil. Add grilled fish on the side.
Pasta and bluefin-tuna bottarga: Combine your favorite pasta with garlic, olive oil, and parsley, and top with a slight grating of the bottarga at the table. Enjoy the strong, aggressive flavors.
Risotto with bottarga: Add smoked provolone cheese to a risotto, and top with a little bottarga. While not traditionally Italian, this dish uses highly Italian ingredients.
Marea features a constantly changing menu to accurately reflect the seasonal changes on the land as well as in the sea. Chef Michael White is constantly inspired by the bounty the spring season brings: "Spring is a great time for chefs!"
Fish
Soft-shell crabs:
Soft-shell crabs--or moleche, as they are called in Italy--will be cooked simply and unabashed at Marea. This cold-water crustacean usually sheds its hard shell between early May and July, a prime time to be plucked from its watery home and quickly cooked before the shell begins to rebuild.
Alaskan Halibut:
Alaskan or Pacific halibut season runs from May until late September. Halibut is most noted for its delicate, sweet flavor and firm, flaky meat. Low in sodium and high in protein and minerals, it is one of the largest flatfish in the sea.
Wild Alaska Salmon:
Salmon season runs from May through early fall. "You can bet if Italians had these fish, they would use them," says Chef White, who can't say enough about them. "How can you pass up the first wild salmon from Alaska? They are just amazing, with an incredible high-fat content from feeding right before they go upstream."
North Carolina Shrimp:
Harvested in the spring and fall, pink or spotted shrimp are North Carolina's second most abundant shrimp species. They can grow as large as 11 inches and have a maximum life span of two years.
Maine Mahogany clams:
With a rich mineral flavor and high salt content, mahogany clams are ideal in pasta dishes. Golden to reddish brown in color, these hard-shell mollusks thrive in both shallow and deep waters
Produce:
Morel mushrooms:
With a honeycomb appearance, morels grow in the same spots every spring, usually under ash, sycamore, dying elm, or old apple trees. Try them stuffed with shrimp sausage at Marea.
Wild Arugula:
Also known as rocket, wild arugula is slightly darker than regular arugula and has a more intense flavor and a rich peppery taste. It's used widely in salads and also as a vegetable with pastas.
Controne beans:
"This is a special dried bean from Campania, Italy, similar to a French white coco bean," explains Chef White. "Thin-skinned, they don't need to be soaked before they are cooked. They are absolutely delicious in seafood dishes."
Fava beans:
Fava beans, or broad beans, are available for a few months each spring. More than ever, Americans are discovering their buttery textures and lovely nutty essences. They are served mashed at Marea.
Snap peas:
These pod fruits known as either snap or sugar snap peas are eaten whole. "We are pureeing snap peas right now with leeks, and using them for a sauce," says Chef White.
Bronte Pistachi os:
Brontes are a brilliant, emerald green nut with an intense, full fragrance, only found growing on the rugged lands of Bronte in Sicily. "These are absolutely beautiful, and I can't wait to use them," says Chef White.
BLT Steak Heads to South Beach
 The Betsy hotel is a majestic presence, a fact confirmed nightly by people out for an evening stroll who pause to admire the unique façade and then ascend the stairs for drinks or dinner at BLT Steak.
Designed in the early 1940s by L. Murray Dixon, and the lone remaining example of Georgian architecture on South Beach's Ocean Drive, Betsy has been completely reconditioned over the past two years by the design team of Pedersoli and Santoro working with the firm of Beilinson-Gomez. The space is stylish but not trendy, a modern classic that is unforgettably cool, refined, and friendly, giving way to a hospitality experience that seamlessly bridges past and present.
The Renewed Betsy Hotel is an Inviting Sanctuary Realizing a vision for excellence rooted
in the continuity of enduring tradition, light filters floor to ceiling through windows into an exquisite lobby, inviting restaurant and hotel visitors to relax and talk about things that matter. Potted palms create a unique tropical-colonial ambience. Vestibules and stairways reveal the work of artists with a world view. The renewed Betsy hotel is an inviting sanctuary with 63 guest suites, each adorned in a palette of whites accented by rich, dark wood and touches of grass green, coral red, lilac, and ochre; intuitive room amenities abound.
Eco-friendly bookmarks imprinted with the words of great poets are gifted each evening to visitors, who can purchase books from Betsy room libraries on departure. Just up an easy
flight of stairs, accented by a breathtaking white sail positioned to impact exposure to elements, a rooftop solarium offers sweeping ocean views.
Betsy's Legacy is Rooted in Events and Experiences that Shaped Our Nation Proud to serve as military barracks for soldiers during World War II, Betsy's legacy is rooted in events and experiences that have shaped our nation. In the 1960s, Jackie Gleason chose South Beach as a location for his weekly series, broadcasting a black-and-white version of Ocean Drive. Ten years later, Betsy hosted Gloria Steinem and the National Organization for Women during the 1972 Democratic Convention. In the 1980s, South Beach was revealed in living color as a backdrop for myriad episodes of Miami Vice, revealing an Art Deco oasis and inspiring new appreciation for the area. The 1980s also witnessed Calvin Klein on location, followed by a multitude of fashion and entertainment projects, including the movie Scarface. A 1996 release of The Birdcage opened with a scene of South Beach. In the same year, designation by the National Register of Historic Places protected properties like The Betsy Ross Hotel from destruction, and served as the primer on canvas from which can emerge a completely restored and refined hospitality icon, The Betsy Hotel, and culinary partner, BLT Steak.
Comedienne and actress Cheri Oteri has graced both the small and silver screens with her wit and style. After joining famed Los Angeles comedy group The Groundlings in the early 1990s, she was discovered by Saturday Night Live and hired as part as a new cast responsible for the show's resurgence in 1995. After five years, she left to work on a variety of movies, guest starring on several TV series. She recently wrapped up writing a screenplay that she finished between bites of tuna tartare at the raw bar at BLT Steak LA.
 How did you discover BLT Steak LA?
I love to go out and discover new restaurants. A friend mentioned BLT to me shortly after it opened, and I was immediately impressed with the food, service, and setting. And then when I discovered they had a raw bar as well, I went nuts!
What is your favorite part of the dining experience at BLT Steak LA?
Where do I start? Everything from the food to the dé cor--it's all fantastic! In a way, it reminds me of old Hollywood, but updated. Funny story: a long time ago I used to work at A&M Records, and one of the department heads, who was quite a character, used to hold court there when it was Le Dome, so the space has always intrigued me. Now when I walk into BLT, it feels cozy but open at the same time. I don't know if it's the seating or the lighting, but it's exciting to be there. I love to people watch, and every table affords a great view of both the whole restaurant and the veranda.
Cocktail or Champagne: neither--wine
Red or White: red
Salad or Tuna Tartare: tuna tartare
Filet or Rib Eye: filet
Baked Potato or Parmesan Gnocchi: au gratin!
Crepe Soufflé or Chocolate Chestnut Sundae: chocolate chestnut sundae
If you could treat anyone to dinner at BLT Steak, who would it be?
That's a tough one, because I am always bringing people to BLT. When I think of a place to treat friends from out of town, BLT is the best spot, and it never fails to please! If you are talking celebrity wise, I would say Oprah--although I have a feeling I would appreciate the food more than she would!
Do you consider yourself a foodie?
Well, I really enjoy food and appreciate a well-cooked meal. I work out to support my eating habits! I like to cook at home as well.
What are some of your favorite food memories?
We have an Italian tradition on Christmas Eve called "the night of seven fishes." When I was a kid, I always associated the kind of fish my grandma served with what the older relatives liked, not the younger ones. But I loved the idea of the tradition and getting dressed up for the event, so I've carried on an updated version. Last year, I served miso black cod, yellowtail sashimi, crab cakes, baked potatoes with caviar and salmon roe, and teriyaki salmon, among others--all dishes I consider fun seafood!
What food staples are always in your kitchen?
Arugula, white and red clam sauce, angel hair and linguini pasta, chicken breasts, and sparkling water.
Favorite food and go-to spot?
Since I'm from back east, shellfish was always such a big deal in the summer. I have a hard time finding good places for shellfish out here in LA, and when I do it's usually disappointing. My favorite spot to go to for pasta and crabs is called Carmen Has Crabs, on the Jersey Shore. Nothing beats dipping crabs in the tomato sauce to create that greattasting gravy!
Where did you last go on vacation?
Actually, it was the Jersey Shore. I lost my father recently, and going to the Shore reminds me of vacations as a kid. I have a lot of friends there that I grew up with and who knew my dad, so in a way it was both a vacation and a sentimental journey home.
What can we expect from you next--either on or off screen?
I am directing a movie that starts filming this summer. The location is still in question, but it will be somewhere on the East Coast. I wrote the screenplay also. It will reflect a lot of my childhood memories.
Do you have a motto you follow in relation to food?
Indulgence with discipline. I believe in enjoying the food you like infused with discipline--which can be either smaller portions or, in my case, working out!
Feta & Arugula Salad, and Pickled Ramp Vinaigrette
Serves 6
 Marinade
The peel of 1 lemon, white pith removed
4 scallions, sliced
2 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves
5 sprigs mint
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
6 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt
3 Jamison lamb loins (about 1 1/2 pounds each), halved widthwise
Cooking Instructions
Marinate the Lamb Combine all ingredients for the marinade in a blender, and puree until smooth, about 1 minute. Pour the marinade into a shallow pan and add the lamb in a single layer. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning the meat from time to time.
Grill the Lamb Preheat grill to mediumhigh heat. Remove the lamb from the
marinade and transfer to a platter. Season with salt and pepper. Grill lamb for 3 minutes on each side for medium rare. To check for doneness, make a small cut in the center or, better yet, insert an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the meat. The temperature should read 140 to 150ºF. Allow lamb to rest for 5 minutes.
Salad
1 zucchini, halved and shaved on a mandolin, keeping the core intact
4 ounces feta cheese, medium dice
2 cups arugula
12 leaves mint, chiffonade
1 cup grape tomatoes, halved
Salt and pepper
Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons pickled ramps, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of half a lemon
Salt and pepper
Make the Vinaigrette In a small bowl, combine the pickled ramps, olive oil, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. In another mixing bowl, add the zucchini, feta cheese, arugula, mint, and tomatoes. Dress with the vinaigrette and set aside.
To Serve Slice the lamb into 1/4-inch pieces. Divide evenly among 6 plates and serve immediately, with the feta and arugula salad on the side.
JAMISON FARM
"A happy lamb is a tender lamb," owner John Jamison of Jamison Farm likes to say. On a picturesque, 210-acre farm located in the rolling Appalachian foothills, John and his wife, Sukey, harvest about 5,000 lambs each year, which then make their way to some of the finest kitchens in the world. Their incomparable flavor--lean, firm, tender meat--is the product of a hormone-, antibiotic-, and herbicide-free diet. Nine months out of the year, the sheep graze on bluegrass and white clover, while during the winter months they are hand-fed only hay and corn.
You can find Jamison Farm lamb on the menu at BLT Steak and BLT Market in New York City. Visit www.jamisonfarm.com.
SATUR FARMS
For BLT restaurant chefs, Satur Farms, located on the North Fork of Long Island, is like having a veget
The Frick Young FellowsFor more than 25 years, the Frick Young Fellows have helped ensure that the Frick Collection remains a singular museum experience. Fellows'gifts support a host of activities that enhance the permanent collection and the landmark gilded age mansion that houses it, including special exhibitions, an annual symposium in the fine arts for graduate students, a concert and lecture series, and maintenance of the galleries and gardens.
 It was a return to glamour at the St. Regis New York, as some of the city's most prominent young patrons gathered for midnight champagne and macaroons under the watchful eye of old king cole.
 Guests enjoyed champagne and Red Snappers, or Bloody Mary's in the legendary lounge.
This beloved cocktail is celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2009. Guests gathered around the pianist for an impromptu show-tune sing a long in Astor Court and the King Cole Bar, never before used for a private event. The space was transformed into a glowing sea of guests that rivaled the original "Astor 400." Derived from the capacity of Mrs. William Astor's ballroom, her "400" represented the epitome of New York Society's sacred inner circle during the last quarter of the 19th century. The evening sponsored by La Perla, was hosted by Frick Young Fellows Byrdie Bell, Allison Aston, Lydia Fenet, Joann Pailey, and Elisabeth Saint-Amand, as well as La Perla's CEO Suzy Biszantz. The evening was a true nod to the glamorous legacy of The St. Regis New York, built in 1904 by John Jacob Astor as a destination to entertain friends and guests in a setting that rivaled the most enchanting hotels in Europe.
by lisa granik, master of wine
Rumors had swirled about for years, and this time they turned out to be true: Krug, for many the ne plus ultra of champagnes, had been nurturing a single vineyard Blanc des Noirs Champagne as counterpoint to its 100 percent Chardonnay Clos de Mesnil.
Krug first released the 1979 Clos de Mesnil in 1986; 22 years later, at Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis New York, Olivier Krug shared "the secret we had guarded for so long" at an intimate Krug collector dinner. The Clos d'Ambonnay is the first Krug cuvée strictly composed of 100 percent pinot noir grapes, and the food paired by Chef Alain Ducasse complemented the inaugural nationwide release of this Krug micro cuvée-- only 3,000 bottles were produced from a vineyard that extends but 1.69 acres.
As far back as the 1880s, the Krug family had identified Ambonnay as the prime source of pinot noir, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger of chardonnay, but it was not until the 1990s that they secured a vineyard in Clos d'Ambonnay for themselves. They had been buying fruit since the 1980s, and experimenting with a single-vineyard cuvée for ten years, but not until the 1995 vintage did the small winemaking team led by Henri, Rémi, and Olivier Krug feel the cuvée expressed the quintessence of the vineyard. Like all Krug wines, it is fermented in small, old oak barrels, which themselves impart to the wine no oaky flavor or aromas but contribute to its breath, depth, harmony, and seamless integration on the palate. A single vineyard, to merit a special bottling, should express a distinct force of personality, and in its singular expression of power and complexity, the Clos d'Ambonnay did not disappoint.
The debut of the 1995 Clos d'Ambonnay was one of two spectacular events at Adour Alain
Ducasse that Olivier Krug hosted in 2008. The second set of fortunate guests enjoyed the pairing of Alain Ducasse's cuisine with the launch of the 1998 vintage. "Krug declares a vintage only in the years which--over and above very high quality--demonstrate truly outstanding personality," notes Olivier. The Krug Grand Cuvée is designed to express the year interpreted in the legendary Krug style. In this case, 1998 was a very good Champagne vintage, with fresh, more concentrated fruit than 1997, and a softer acidity than 1996. "Back in 1998, when the time came to assemble the year's wines, we said to ourselves that Krug 1998 had the warm, mellow character of Krug 1989 with the spirit and frankness of Krug 1995," Olivier reminisced during the dinner. "After ten years in the cellars, that enchanting impression is confirmed. Krug 1998 is another fascinating encounter waiting to be made, and I am delighted to open these first bottles at Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis New York."
One can only hope that these extraordinary events continue, and that we can be among the special few to enjoy them!
Hudson Valley Fresh is a not-for-profit dairy cooperative dedicated to preserving the agricultural heritage of the Hudson River Valley. By supporting sustainable agriculture, they have made it their mission to secure living wages for farmers and their families and to ensure a fair price for Hudson Valley farmers' goods in order to keep those farmers in business. Look for the Hudson Valley Fresh logo and for the premium-quality dairy products: whole, skim, low-fat, and chocolate milk along with half-and-half, heavy cream, and sour cream. Visit hudsonvalleyfresh.com.
 Caneel Bay is a special place--a truly unique experience in restrained yet fine living. There are no televisions, telephones, or otherwise digital distractions at this low-key luxury property, located within the protected grounds of the Virgin Islands National Park on the island of St. John. What you'll find is 170 acres of lush landscape, including seven secluded white-sand beaches. Wildlife in the sea is abundant (turtles, stingrays, and tropical fish abound), as well as on land (wild donkeys have free range of the property!). The simply furnished and elegant accommodations casually blend in at this serene hideaway that Laurence Rockefeller founded more than 50 years ago. Visit caneelbay.com.
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